Koutammakou Excursion: Discovering the Ancient Batammariba Tribe of Togo

After over 9 hours driving from Lomé, we finally reached one of the most special sites of my Togo trek - Koutammakou, the land of the Batamariba. This has been high on my list, and I couldn’t come this far and not meet the people known as "the real architects of the earth".

Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2004, Koutammakou is celebrated for its striking earthen architecture and as a living cultural landscape that embodies the Batammariba worldview. They are an ancient people who migrated south from the Mossi kingdom (today's Burkina Faso) to preserve their culture and autonomy. The ruling political and spiritual system in the Mossi empire (17th-18th century) sought to dominate and expand through tributes and warfare. They held no connection to the land, took slaves and upheld rigid class structures.

Earthen fortress (Takienta) with the Atacora mountains in the background.

This system was foreign to the Batammariba and it threatened their way of life. They are spiritual animists and are deeply connected to the earth and to preserve their autonomy, they sought refuge to the base of the Atacora mountains (which spans northern Togo and Benin Republic). This geography helped them resist domination from larger groups - most notably the Dahomey kingdom and later, European colonialists.

The culture of the Batammariba is centered around protection and safeguarding themselves as sovereign beings so prior to building their iconic fortresses, the early Batammariba settlers took refuge in the giant baobab trees that dot the landscape. They also fed on its fruit and so these trees took sacred space in the cosmology of this culture - a physical and spiritual refuge. The cylindrical shape of the tree’s interior seem to mirror the towers of their housing structures, a beautiful concept because all the best answers are gotten in nature. This reflects a deep harmony between the people and their natural environment.

The mud fortresses (also called takienta) are multi-story structures made from mud, straw and wood, both home and sanctuary. The ground floor reserved as sacred space, houses altars for the gods, the man of the house, and their animals. The upper floor is reserved for women and children, it also serves as food storage and all you need for daily life.

Koutammakou; the rocky region of northeastern Togo where the Batammariba call home. Their unique way of life leaves an indelible mark on the landscape, shaping the earth to their survival needs.

From the rooftop, the view of the landscape stretches endlessly across the Atacora hillside, an extra security benefit. This ensures that lookouts can see incoming danger from several kilometers away. The scene felt like a dream, the landscape, infinite in scale and majesty, and I got a glimpse into a people who held an ancient sophistication.

Segment of the upper floor, sleeping areas concealed within the structures thick walls

They go by multiple tribe names (Tamberma in Togo and Somba in Benin) but Batammariba means “those who are the real architects of the earth”. They are spiritually bonded with the earth, and this shows in their daily life and rituals. Central to their cosmology, is the belief in a serpent deity. A cosmic force that resides deep within the earth and is a symbol of renewal, fertility and the link between the physical and spirit world. This deity moves through the soil, mirroring how the Batammariba view life and death as branches from the same tree and not opposite. As a result, rock pythons (and other snakes I presume) are considered sacred in much of this region.

They see themselves as caretakers of the land rather than owners, and they express this beautifully in their architecture, lifestyle and sacred rituals. This connection is fascinating and many people travel vast distances for a glimpse into their lives.

To dive deeper into the culture, we visited the sacred baobab tree. There were a number of them but one dwarfed all others. It's size was outstanding, probably the widest tree I had ever seen. The space inside impressive, a fairly large group of people can easily fit in the cylindrical space. Their oneness with the earth was once again demonstrated when one of the men climbed up the tree with a deftness that could only have been DNA deep, demonstrating that connection once again.

The Sacred Baobab trees, both refuge and nourishment, has evolved to sacred status by the Batammariba.

At this point, the entire village had come to join us at the sacred tree and I felt honored by the warmth, I wish I had brought some gifts or provisions, especially for the children, but maybe next time I will be more prepared. They are very welcoming and understand the value of tourism. As soon as you arrive in the settlement, the women put on their traditional caps which symbolize that they have reached womanhood. The horns of anantelope are typically used to make these and they are very proud of them. They also craft interesting souvenirs and trinkets for sale, so bring some cash.

The men then showed us a combat display to wrap up the tour. This is done to demonstrate their courage and their ability to protect their families. Afterall, and most especially here, a man is not a man here until he can build his homestead and defend it. We bid the families farewell, and made our way towards our next destination, our minds filled with much to think about and much to be grateful for. It was truly a magnificent and spiritual interaction.