Koutammakou Excursion: Discovering the Ancient Batammariba Tribe of Togo

After over nine hours driving from Lomé, we finally reached one of the most special sites of my Togo trek - Koutammakou, the land of the Batammariba. This has been high on my list, and I couldn’t come this far and not meet the people known as "the real architects of the earth".

Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2004, Koutammakou is celebrated for its striking earthen architecture and as a living cultural landscape that embodies the Batammariba worldview. They are an ancient people who migrated south from the Mossi kingdom (in present-day Burkina Faso) to preserve their culture and autonomy. The ruling political and spiritual system in the Mossi empire (17th-18th century) sought to dominate and expand through tributes and warfare. The Mossi held little connection to the land, took slaves and upheld rigid class structures.

Earthen fortress (Takienta) with the Atacora mountains in the background.

This system was foreign to the Batammariba and threatened their way of life. As spiritual animists deeply connected to the earth, they sought refuge to the base of the Atacora mountains (which span northern Togo and Benin Republic). The geography helped them resist domination from larger groups - most notably the Dahomey kingdom and later, European colonialists.

The culture of the Batammariba is centered around protection and sovereignty. Before building their iconic fortresses, early settlers found refuge in the giant baobab trees that dot the landscape. They fed on its fruit and over time the baobab took sacred space in their cosmology - both a physical and spiritual refuge. The cylindrical shape of the tree’s interior mirrors the towers of their housing structures, a beautiful example of how the best answers are gotten in nature.

The mud fortresses (takienta) are multi-story structures made from mud, straw and wood, both home and sanctuary. The ground floor reserved as sacred space, houses altars for the gods, the man of the house, and their animals. The upper floor is for women and children, and also serves as food storage and all you need for daily life.

Koutammakou; the rocky region of northeastern Togo where the Batammariba call home. Their unique way of life leaves an indelible mark on the landscape, shaping the earth to their survival needs.

From the rooftop, the view of the landscape stretches endlessly across the Atacora hillside, an extra security benefit. This ensures that lookouts can see incoming danger from several kilometers away. The scene felt like a dream: vast, quiet and powerful, and I got a true glimpse into an ancient and sophisticated people..

Segment of the upper floor, sleeping areas concealed within the structures thick walls

They are known by different names (Tamberma in Togo and Somba in Benin) but Batammariba translates to “those who are the real architects of the earth”. Spiritually bonded to the land, and this is expressed through their architecture, rituals and daily life. Central to their cosmology, is the belief in a serpent deity. A cosmic force dwelling deep within the earth and a symbol of renewal, fertility and the link between the physical and spirit world. This deity's movement through soil mirrors how the Batammariba see life and death - not as opposites but as branches from the same tree. Because of this, rock pythons (and other snakes) are considered sacred throughout much of this region.

They see themselves as caretakers of the land rather than owners, express this reverence beautifully in their architecture, lifestyle and sacred rituals. This bond with nature is fascinating and many people travel for a glimpse into their lives.

To dive deeper, we visited the sacred baobab tree. There were a number of them but one dwarfed all others. It's size was outstanding, its interior could fit a fairly large group of people comfortably. Their oneness with nature came alive when one of the men climbed up the tree effortlessly, as if guided by instinct.

The Sacred Baobab trees, both refuge and nourishment, has evolved to sacred status by the Batammariba.

At this point, the entire village had come to join us at the sacred tree and I felt honored by the warmth, I wish I had brought some gifts or provisions, especially for the children, but maybe next time I will be more prepared. They are very welcoming and understand the value of tourism. As soon as you arrive in the settlement, the women put on their traditional caps which symbolize that they have reached womanhood. The horns of anantelope are typically used to make these and they are very proud of them. They also craft interesting souvenirs and trinkets for sale, so bring some cash.

The men then showed us a combat display to wrap up the tour. This is done to demonstrate their courage and their ability to protect their families. Afterall, and most especially here, a man is not a man here until he can build his homestead and defend it. We bid the families farewell, and made our way towards our next destination, our minds filled with much to think about and much to be grateful for. It was truly a magnificent and spiritual interaction.