A cross-country journey through Togo, from Lomé to Koutammakou. This piece weaves together the places, people, and quiet moments that shaped the trip—coastal roads, border crossings, unexpected detours, and encounters with living history. It serves as both a reflection and a guide, linking each stop to deeper stories while capturing the rhythm of moving through a country often passed over but richly layered.

Visiting the Akodessawa Fetish Market in Togo was an intentional act of spiritual inquiry. To truly understand people, you must understand what moves them beyond the physical. Rooted in Vodun, the market offers a raw, unfiltered encounter with West Africa’s spiritual foundations—where death is continuity, craft is sacred, and ancient deities like Papa Legba guide wisdom at life’s crossroads. It was confronting, grounding, and deeply affirming.

On a visit to Djambe Reserve in northern Togo, I encountered two African elephants up close, witnessing their intelligence, curiosity, and gentle nature. Once abundant across West Africa, elephants now face severe threats from poaching and ivory trafficking. This story explores their declining numbers, the efforts to protect them, and the unforgettable moment of connecting with these remarkable animals.