Exploring Kpalime - Coffee, Cocoa, and Culture in Kuma Konda, Togo's forest plateau region

As we drove north from Lomé, the landscape began to twist and turn into the rain-soaked hills of the Togolese countryside, a sight to behold. About two and a half hours north of Lomé, the geography becomes undulating. This is Togo's plateau region and it is especially striking for the dense forests that blanket the rocky landscape.

The Road to Kuma Konda

The road winds through hills and trees, unique views at every bend. Rain is frequent in this region, so the vegetation is lush and the air feels alive. Much of this land remains unspoiled and so the ecosystem is balanced, and perfect for two pivotal cash crops -coffee and cocoa.

Lomé to Kpalime - two and a half hours drive into the Kuma Konda mountains

Coffee in the clouds

Before the tour began, we sat at an outdoor cafe for a hearty taste of locally brewed coffee. The aroma was rich and earthy, the mug warm in my hands. I have been avoiding coffee lately - it gives me jitters but this particular brew felt gentler, less caffeinated than expected. The subtle energy boost was welcome, especially since the tour involved walking around the plantation. Comfortable shoes are a must, and it's wise to expect rain.

A warm pot of Togolese coffee before our tour started. The quaint cafe is called Chez Paul.

Cultural and historical insight (Ewe migration)

Our tour guide, a proud son of Kuma Konda, explained that the plantations here are far more than farmland, and they're part of a living story stretching back centuries. The Ewe people, who inhabit much of southern Togo and adjacent parts of Ghana, trace ancestry through migration stories spanning Ketu (in present day Benin Republic), Tado and then Notsé, where we were currently standing.

Tour guide at Kuma Konda beaming with pride as he detailed the history of the land and the people that inhabit it.

From oral tradition, we know that the harsh rule of King Agokoli in Notsé  (16th - 17th century), forced the Ewe people to mass emigrate in three main directions. They walked backwards so as not to leave tracks, which I find is as brilliant as it is simple. The group that moved to the northwest founded towns like Kpalimé (our stop for the night), Hohoe, Kpandu and Peki. The second group went west and founded the town of Ho and its neighbors. The third went south along the coast and founded Bè, which is present-day Lomé.

Sustainability and Agrotourism in Togo

As with many West African countries, Togo has a natural advantage for cultivating certain crops because the climate and rainfall work in harmony with the soil. However, what really stood out to me was how agriculture here integrates with nature - not intensive, rushed or damaging. The landscape that has supported birds and other wildlife for eons still stands, creating a rare balance between cultivation and conservation. Yet, like many natural spaces in West Africa, it faces growing threats - deforestation, climate change and economic pressures. The list of risks to eco-tourism grows every day.

An open cocoa pod - the starting point of the $130 billion dollar chocolate industry

As we moved through the plantation, our guide pointed out various plants and highlighted their uses and peculiarities. Not only is the area a plantation, but it also doubles as a botanical garden and it was interesting to learn about the various plants and their uses which is a brilliant agrotourism initiative. Not only does it conserve the natural ecosystem, it also generates revenue for the local people that tend to the crops, give tours, and the many other sources of revenue that spring up from a tourism initiative.

Chateau De Viale

The next part of the tour took us to a stone castle perched on top of the mountain peaks known as the Chateau De Viale. By this time the rain had started to pour and we had to keep things brief. The structure, now owned by the Togolese government was originally built by a German lawyer. The rumour is that his wife didn't take to the isolation of the forest home and she left only after a few days.

Chateau Viale and its mysterious origins lie atop one of Kuma Konda's mountain peaks

It later served the government and hosted state guests but now lies empty. It is an impressively built relic, its solid stone walls likely to stand for many more centuries. With restoration, creativity, cultural sensitivity (especially concerning the people who inhabit these mountains), this location could draw in many visitors, not just for the mystery but as a testament to resilience and architecture.

Art and food finale

The last part of the tour was a visit to the Atelier Kuma Konda, an artisanal center, and a treasure trove of souvenirs. The Togolese craftmanship once again shines here, you see the quality, particularly in the woodwork. We spent some time searching for memorable keepsakes, I found a couple of trinkets for my friends and I. Always remember to wear your bargaining hat.

A display of wooden artefacts at the Atelier Kuma Konda. The center serves as a workshop for artisans of different artistic disciplines and a source for travel memorabilia.

It had been several hours on the road at this point and the sun was beginning to set. We still had some time on the road and so we paid and headed out. We stopped at a local chop bar for a comforting meal of fufu and goat meat, which was a warm blanket to wrap up a fantastic day in Togo's plateau region.