Visiting the Akodessewa Fetish Market (Marche De Feticheurs), Lome

I am making it a habit to visit the (original) Gods that protect the land, whenever I visit somewhere new. It is important that when you want to learn about people, you must seek to understand what drives them spiritually. Therefore a stop at the Akodessawa fetish market - the largest fetish market in the world - was needed. Traditionally, Vodun (Voodoo) is the spiritual core of the people here, and having experienced Vodun before in the neighboring Benin Republic, I was curious to learn about it through the Togolese lens.

Fetish Market, Tourist site established in 1863. Tickets cost 3,000 CFA and photos cost 2,000 CFA

Akodessewa is well known and easy to find, and even though Christian and Islamic influences have penetrated Togo within the last century, many Togolese still revere their traditional rites. The market has an open-air layout with a dozen or so stalls and tables.

Open-air market in Akodessewa, the primary source for all ingredients for traditional ceremonies, rites, illnesses and a spiritual foundation of the people here.

And on these tables are piles of dried dead animal parts, some in pieces and some whole. These animals are an intricate part of the Voodoo system serving as ingredients for all sorts of rituals and potions. It really feels like you are in another realm, and it can be quite overwhelming to the senses, especially as the smell of decay hits your nostrils. As we know by now, West African religions pre-date Abrahamic spirituality, so things are a lot more "real". Our traditions view death as an intricate part of nature, and rather than seeing it as an ending, we view it as a continuation. The natural flow of life.

An array of small reptiles, birds and mammals displayed for sale

I was uneasy for one reason though, I couldn't help but wonder about the animal populations that have gone into stocking this market, but my guide assured me that throughout history, the people have always been aware of the need to not over-harvest their wildlife and risk their extinction. He also mentioned that for the bigger animals, they typically use the sick and dying. It might be a bit much for some people, especially with the smell, but this is as authentic as it gets.

Skulls of all kinds, the variety is most impressive

The market is also a source for all kinds of artefacts like masks, statues, ceramics, paintings and much more. Their craftmanship is impeccable, yet another example of the Togolese craftmanship I mentioned in earlier texts. It was great to see how they imbued this mindset into their spiritual objects as well.

Ornately carved masks that hold a powerful presence. These are likely used in traditional rites and ceremonies.

The final part of our tour was a consultation with the Babalawo. Surprisingly, he happened to be a young man, but his eyes held knowledge that vastly surpassed his age. Prior to this Togo trip, I had developed an interest in the deity known in Yoruba land as 'Esu' and the Togolese have their own version of him, but here he is called 'Papa Legba'.

Our Babalawo, young in age, but ancient in spirit

I have done a deep dive into this orisa before and you can read about it here, and my main interest in him is because he is an orisa of wisdom and crossroads, and therefore of making good choices. It was therefore important for me to pay homage to this deity, as well as thank the Gods in general for what was a fantastic Togo trip. There were some charms for sale as well, and I purchased two - one for wisdom and smart decision-making, and one for protection during my travels. The Babalawo then imbued these charms with power, we gave thanks and it was time to bid him and the Orisa adieu.

Charms for sale at the Fetish Market - some provide protection, good luck, wisdom for decision making and even help with romantic worries.

I left with a sense of wholeness, a feeling that I was on the right path and that I was protected at home and away. I felt powerful and confident, especially as my Togo trip was coming to an end. What had started out as a jump into the deep end, turned out to be a fantastic five-day journey discovering a new country with my friends, and I can't wait to visit again.

If you will be visiting the fetish market, you need to come with an open mind. These practices were here long before Christianity and Islam, so they are raw, unfiltered and powerful. Come with an open mind and the willingness to learn, and you will definitely gain a lot from the experience.