A Journey Through Togo's Past and Present at Palais De Lomé Museum

The air was heavy with salt and history as we walked up the steps of Palais De Lomé, a colonial relic reborn as a museum of pride. My friends thought it would be a brilliant historical deep dive into Togo's historical context. It was originally built as a colonial palace under Governor August Kohler between 1898 and 1905, when Togo was under German colonial rule. The Germans wanted to show their prestige and power, so in collaboration with local Togolese builders, it was erected and served as the residence of the governor. It was abandoned at the end of the colonial period, but purchased by the Togolese state and repurposed into a museum in 2019. It now houses interesting exhibits that show breadcrumbs of Togo's rich heritage.

Front view of the Palais De Lomé - its distinctive arches, window shutters and central tower are a reminder of Togo's history and also a testament to the regions architectural prowess.

The palace is on a beautiful piece of land that overlooks the ocean but what makes it magnificent is the grounds. It is essentially a well manicured 11 hectare forest vibrant from all the plant and animal life, and though not a primary bird watching location, there are a number of resident and migratory birds.

11 Hectares of forest wraps the Palais in a serene embrace

There are numerous restoration projects in Togo, but the renovation of this structure was done impeccably. It was immediately obvious that Togolese architecture would be an impressive theme during this trip, but more on that later. The original solid wood windows and rafters are maintained, their earthy brown gives the eyes a break from the white paint which dazzled in the sun. The arches in the doorways add a soft feel to the structure as well, making an otherwise imposing building seem a lot more cozy. The courtyard, the staircases and some patches of original tiles were a lovely sight.

Courtyard at Palais De Lomé - a prominent feature of West African traditional architecture, necessary for ventilation in hot climates

A patch of tile work from the original build of the palais

The different sections of the palais are split into exhibits, each one giving you breadcrumbs about the spirit of the Togolese people. There is an art exhibit showing the work of Kossi Aguessy, may he rest in peace (1977 - 2017). He was a Togolese-Brazilian industrial artist and designer and his work is a magical blend of sculpture and functional furniture designs. He wrapped aesthetic, function and emotion in a spiritual envelope. You can learn more about him here.

A section of the Kossi Aguessy exhibit - the iconic "Jord" marble chair to the right of the photo.

The next exhibit was a marvelous treat for me - their ancient architecture exhibit. Seeing the history of the Togolese people told through images of their architecture across time was unique. You start to realize the mix of factors that earn them a reputation of master builders - it's in the culture, in the training and in the work ethic.

The Togolese have a reputation for being master builders, and you understand that it has been built into the heritage and culture, brick by brick

They had a map of the region, showing Togo and its neighbors. It was interesting to note that current day Togo used to be part of the greater Ashanti kingdom, so I would be catching hints of Ghana throughout my stay (hmm, I should go back soon).

Next was a curious collection of objects and images showing Togo's history, and this section had a particular focus on traditional clothing, Kente especially. We also learned about an impressive group of women who earned the nickname 'Nana Benz'. They made a fortune from producing intricate fabrics that told different stories. They were well respected in society and quite influential. Read about them here.

Fascinating story of Togolese matriarchs and their entrepreneurial spirit. They even carried the economic burden of the nation from 1973 - 1979.

These exhibits really stood out to me, but there are others like the discotheque that explored the country's musical history and all sorts of objects ranging from household items, to motorcycles. I would have loved to see more from the young Togolese artists and the complex ideas they are exploring, but maybe that is a work in progress.

It was really nice to see a colonial structure repurposed in this way. The ability to alchemize a colonial symbol into an emblem of a sovereign people is an inspiring story of transformation and creativity. The tickets cost me 3,000 CFA / ₦15,000 as a 'local foreigner', but the experience was priceless. We then wrapped up the rest of the afternoon at one of Lome's many beachfront bars (Plage De Lomé) for some delicious barbecued tilapia and one of the local beers called Awooyo. After we ate, we reflected on the days highlights in the cool breeze and warm sand. In many ways, Palais De Lomé mirrors Togo itself - a nation reimagining its history while savoring the beauty of the present.